|
My
Business
•
Do
you remove monograms?
•
Can
you give me a price on a repair?
•
If
I'm going to bid on a piece on an auction site, can I get a repair quote?
•
What
do I insure my silver for that I'm shipping to you?
•
Do
you perform appraisals?
•
Can
you remove gilding on sterling flatware?
•
Do
you replace broken blades in stainless knives?
•
You
do major repairs; can I send something that just needs polishing?
•
Can
you repair a baby spoon that's been down the garbage disposal?
•
Can
you convert a tablespoon spoon into an ice cream fork?
Restoration
•
What's
the difference between, repair, restoration, conservation & preservation?
•
Why
won't polishing remove turquoise-colored corrosion?
•
What
are the rough spots on my sterling that I can't remove with silver polish?
•
Can
I add a patina to silver or does it have to be done professionally?
•
How
do I remove nicks from my carving knives?
Preservation
•
Does
silica gel serve the same purpose as 3M Anti-Tarnish strips, or
should I use both?
•
What
will prevent rust on carbon steel blades?
•
Should
I lacquer silver so it won't tarnish?
•
How
can I protect my silver tray from being scratched?
•
Can
silver go directly into a Ziploc bag without wrapping it in tissue first?
Cleaning
•
How
do I clean ivory insulators and handles?
•
Why can't remove a stain on my silver salver
after serving a roast?
•
Can I use powered chalk and water to polish silver?
Plated
Ware
•
Can
plated carbon steel blades be replated?
•
What
are the white spots I see on my plated piece?
•
Can
scratches on silverplate be removed?
•
Some
of the gilding has worn off my fish slice, can it be replated?
•
Short
of replating, how can I hide the copper showing on the bottom of my tray?
•
If
I see copper showing inside my coffeepot, is it safe to drink from?
History
•
When
was electroplating invented?
•
When
was stainless first used in table knives?
•
Who
was America's first silversmith?
•
Is
it true about a smith's reflection in The Bible's Malachi 3:3?
Identification
•
How
can I tell if a piece is solid silver or silverplate?
•
Is
1847 Rogers Bros. flatware sterling?
•
Identification
links
Health
•
Does
silver have health benefits?
•
Can
acidic liquids in silverplate or sterling be a hazardous combination?
•
Why
is there a metallic taste when I drink coffee or tea?
Selling
•
Who
should I contact if I want to sell my silver?
•
I
have about 70 pounds of silver coins. Where should I sell them?
Miscellaneous
•
What's
the difference between machine engraving and hand engraving?
•
What
is weighted sterling?
•
Does
stainless steel corrode?
•
Where
can I learn silversmithing or jewelry making?
•
I
have just started collecting. Are there any silver magazines?
•
I
have a Mexican candelabra stamped "sterling" on the
bottom. Are the arms sterling?
•
Where
can I get glass liners made for my open salts?
•
What's
the correct way to set a table?
•
Can
I use my plated meat tray to cook chicken or beef in the oven? new
Q.
Do
you remove monograms?
A.
Monograms on silver are part of the object's
history and should not be removed for this reason. Museums use
monograms to help trace an object's provenance. Beautiful engraving
is a work of art—an art form quickly disappearing. Sadly, most
antique dealers indiscriminately remove monograms to make the object
more saleable.
Having said this, if you insist
on having the engraving removed, I will agree to eradicate it. I
would rather remove the monogram than have the object brought to
someone less skilled. I have no reservations in removing machine
engraving from mass-produced flatware. Keep in mind that if a
monogram is deeply engraved on the bottom of a thin tray, for
example, the results may not be desirable, for any weight placed on
that area could possibly produce a dent. You will be consulted before
I remove engraving from any object in question.
Q.
If
I'm going to bid on a piece on an
auction site,
can I get a repair quote?
A.
If
you're considering
a silver purchase from an auction site, e-mail
an image of the object in need of repair and I'll be happy e-mail you
an estimate.
Q.
What do I insure
my silver for that I'm shipping to you?
A. Your
homeowner's insurance may state what your piece is worth and if it's
covered off premises. If the policy isn't that specific, try
the following:
• Identify
the OBJECT: Coffeepot, Sardine Server, Caviar Server, etc.
• Identify
the COUNTRY in which it was created: America, England, Germany, etc.
• Identify
the MAKER: Gorham, Tiffany, Georg Jensen, Arthur J. Stone, Paul
Storr, etc. If you can't identify the maker, go here.
• Identify
the METAL STANDARD: Sterling, .925, Coin, Standard, 800, 840, EPNS
(Electro Plated Nickel Silver), etc.
• Type
the above information in your browser's search feature and see if
your piece is found.
Q.
What's the difference between, repair, restoration, conservation
& preservation?
A. The
definitions below, in many instances, can be combined for the
desired outcome.
• Repair: To
fix (best possible outcome) a damaged or worn area on an object.
•
Restoration: To either make an object or damaged area on that object
look new, or to make it look its age without any noticeable damage or repairs.
•
Conservation: Primarily dealing with cleaning an object, doing the
least amount of harm to its original finish.
•
Preservation: To stabilize an object from further deterioration. This
may entail using an archival wax to maintain the surface finish.
Q.
How can I tell if a piece is solid silver or silverplate?
A.
Normally, if an object is solid silver it will be indicated on the
piece. Examples are: Sterling, 925, 925/1000, 900, Coin, Standard,
9584 (English Britannia), 800 (Germany), 84 (Russia), etc. Most
American-made objects are marked on the bottoms of holloware and on
the reverse on flatware. Foreign-made objects can be marked most
anywhere and are sometimes accompanied by additional marks applied in
the country's assay office which tests the quality of the precious
metal during its manufacture. Using a 10x loupe may be required as
some stamps are incredibly small.
Rarely will you find a piece made
of solid silver that isn't stamped. If an object isn't stamped, a
non-invasive identification method is by judging tarnish color.
Silverplate will exhibit a blue-purple hue, where solid silver will
exhibit grey-black. If you cannot determine if an object is solid
silver empirically, please contact me.
A rare earth
magnet is a handy tool and can be used to identify iron in an object,
such as carbon steel knife blades, or plated ware that has nickel
underneath. Yes, nickel is slightly magnetic.
Q.
Can scratches on silverplate be removed?
A.
Unfortunately, scratches cannot be removed on silverplated objects
– here's why: Good quality silver is plated with 40 microns
(.0015") of fine silver. After plating, the object is given a
final polish which removes some of this silver. The piece will then
be left with no more silver than the thickness of a plastic grocery
bag. A scratch is generally deeper than the thickness of the
silverplating, so only a quick polishing with a very fine polishing
compound is possible which will brighten the object. Attempting to
remove scratches will only cut through the plate and expose the base metal.
Q.
Do you perform appraisals?
A.
I'm sorry, I don't. Please contact a professional at one of the
following organizations:
American
Society of Appraisers
555 Herndon Parkway, Suite 125
Herndon, VA 20170
703/478-2228, Fax: 703/742-8471
Appraisers
Association of America, Inc.
386 Park Ave. South, Suite 2000
New York, NY 10016
212/889-5404, Fax: 212/889-5503
International
Society of Appraisers
1131 SW 7th St., Suite 105
Renton, WA 98055
206/241-0359, Fax: 206/241-0436
Recommended
• Joseph
P. Brady Appraisal Services
2870 Peachtree Rd. #495
Atlanta, Georgia 30305
770/594-9293, 
• Match
Safe Appraisals
Neil Shapiro is an avid match
safe collector and member of the International Match Safe
Association. He offers free appraisals and research including names
of makers or manufacturers, history, or materials of a particular
match safe. If he can't help I will refer you to someone who can.
• Waterman
Appraisal & Consulting Services
17 Ronald Rd.
Barrington, RI 02806
401/289-0044, Cell: 401/595-4225,
Q.
Do you replace
broken blades in stainless knives?
A.
No. The blades that are fitted and ground to the shape of the
handle are specific to that design. I'm afraid you'll have to look
for a replacement.
Q.
Can
you remove gilding on sterling flatware?
A.
Yes I do. I have found that many collectors are looking to also have
vermeil (gilding) removed from recently purchased sterling flatware.
I will then patinate the pieces and give them a light buffing for an
entirely new look.
Q.
You
do major repairs;
can I send something that just needs polishing?
A.
Though it looks as though I perform only complicated repairs or work
on rare pieces, I most certainly take on (and enjoy) polishing all
types of silver.
Q.
Can you give me a price on a repair?
A.
If you can e-mail me images of the pieces, along with the makers
marks (usually illustrated on the bottoms of the objects), I will be
able to give you ballpark pricing.
Q.
Some of the gilding has worn off
my fish slice, can it be replated?
A.
Yes, the worn area can be sponge plated and blended into the
surrounding gilding.
Q.
Can you convert a tablespoon
spoon
into an ice cream fork?
A. Unfortunately,
I do not alter flatware designs to something that was never made in
that pattern. If I were to do that, a collector in the future may
assume that the company made that piece when they didn't. I would
suggest contacting a silver dealer
to see if the piece you would like created exists in your pattern.
Q.
Can you repair a baby spoon that's been down the garbage disposal?
A.
Ninety-nine percent of the time it can! The bowl can be
rounded and gouges removed, splits can be brazed, handles can be
unwrapped and straightened, and most of all, the piece can be made
useful again. I repaired a disposal-damaged baby spoon from a
collector in California. His wife was livid. He loved the results
upon return...it gets better. I received the same spoon a couple of
months later after it had again been down the disposal. There was
actually enough material left for me to make the baby spoon
functional without any sharp edges!
Q.
Why won't
polishing remove turquoise-colored corrosion?
A.
This color indicates that the piece is probably plated and not a
solid silver alloy. If this is the case, the area that is corroded
would have to be selectively plated or the entire piece re-plated. Do
not try to remove the corrosion yourself as it may harm the value of
the object.
Q.
What are the rough spots on my sterling that I can't remove with
silver polish?
A.
Those black rough spots you feel on sterling (or other solid silver
alloys) and can't remove with silver polish is most likely corrosion.
Place an ammonia-soaked cotton ball on the corrosion spot and it
should be dissolved within 10 minutes. If not, do it again for ten
minutes at a time until the corrosion is removed. You may need to use
some silver polish on a Q-tip or cotton ball and "massage"
the area very lightly until you bring up the shine to blend in with
the surrounding area. There will probably be a shallow etched spot
that remains under the corroded area.
Q.
Can I add a patina to silver or does it have to be done professionally?
A.
I would not advise anyone but a silver conservationist to perform
this application. Unfortunately, these chemicals are very toxic and
difficult to apply and highlight which is why it should only be
attempted by a professional.
Q.
What's the difference between machine engraving and hand engraving?
A.
Machine engraving isn't true engraving in a sense that metal isn't
removed, it's actually burnished. That's why you'll feel a slight
ridge when you run your finger over it. It's not unlike when you draw
a picture in the sand. Hand engraving is the process
of cutting shallow lines into metal with a sharp graver, reproducing
artwork which has been drawn on a metal article. Unlike machine
engraving, hand engraving removes metal when cutting. Bright cutting
is another form of engraving which is very reflective because of its
flat, angled cut.
Q.
Can
acidic liquids
in silverplate or sterling
be a hazardous combination?
A.
It's true that acetic liquids that come in contact with silverplate
and solid silver alloys will eventually leach into the liquid,
though, it would be unusual for it to happen at an accelerated rate.
For this reason, I generally recommend to my customers to empty these
liquids from their whisky flasks and punchbowls after use. If an
object is plated, there may be some base metal (copper, brass, or
leaded white metal) showing through and may also give the liquid a
nasty taste. Acidic liquids can also leach out microscopic amounts of
copper in silver alloys such as sterling and coin. This same
phenomenon holds true when leaving acidic liquids in leaded crystal.
Q.
Should I lacquer silver so it won't tarnish?
A.
Lacquering silver and silverplate is generally not recommended
because of the difficulties in obtaining a uniform coating, even when
applied by a professional refinisher. If the coating has not been
applied well, it may even have streaks and small holes, so that when
the object retarnishes, it could look worse than if no coating had
been applied. Lacquer will also eventually yellow
and crack, allowing tarnish to form within the fissures and
eventually under the protective coating. Lacquer can easily chip or
wear off of contact points on objects that have individual parts,
such as covers on sugar bowls, coffee and teapots, boxes, salt
shakers, and the like. Strong solvents must then be used to remove
the lacquer and the piece refinished, not always successfully.
If an object is
placed in an open display where surface protection is necessary, an
archival micro-crystalline wax such as Renaissance is recommended.
Renaissance will not yellow and will last for years if handled
properly. Since Renaissance wax is not as durable as lacquer, the
object should be handled with cotton gloves since acid from your
fingers may eventually remove it. Renaissance wax can be purchased
from Cutlery Specialties (restorationproduct.com).
Does
silica gel serve the same purpose as 3M Anti-Tarnish strips, or
should I use both?
A.
The strips absorb tarnish-producing
pollutants; the gel controls the humidity that contributes to the
acceleration of tarnish. I always advise using both.
Q.
Does silver have health benefits?
A.
Yes. If you’re a silver lover,
here’s something else you’ll appreciate about this lustrous
metal: it can kill or suppress the growth of microorganisms such as
bacteria, mold, and fungus. Silver ions have a toxic effect on these
organisms without harm to humans. Its germicidal properties have been
well documented through its use in wound dressings to stop infection
and promote healing. These properties have the same effect in silver
objects. Stainless steel doesn’t offer these benefits nor does
it retain its value. Why not buy something that has been staving off
illnesses naturally for centuries? Consider drinking from a silver
goblet or eating from flatware an elegant way to stay healthier. And
when it's time to pass down your silver to the next generation, you
can extol silver's health benefits as well.
• Spread the word! If you're
a silver dealer selling your wares from your shop or at shows, print
this poster: 8x10, 8.5x11.
Q.
I
have a set of 1847 Rogers Bros. flatware. Is it sterling?
A.
Unfortunately, it isn't. The "1847" does not indicate
the date the company was founded or a design number. It refers to the
date they perfected the electroplating process and went on to produce
an extensive line of plated holloware and flatware.
Q.
When was stainless first used in
table knives?
A.
Though American Elwood Haynes discovered stainless steel and patented
it in 1919, it wasn't until 1924 when a stainless steel table knife
blade was invented by Englishman Dr. William Herbert Hatfield. It was
called 18/8 stainless steel (18% chromium, 8% nickel), an alloy which
is still used today. Prior to this development, carbon steel was used
which was then replaced with plated carbon steel.
Q.
What
will prevent rust on carbon steel blades?
A. Flatware
containing unplated carbon steel knife blades require protection, or
rust will develop. After use, wash the piece as soon as possible in
warm water and dry immediately. Apply some mineral oil to a paper
towel and wipe the blade, leaving a thin layer of oil. When you're
ready to reuse the knife, lightly wipe the blade again; an even
thinner layer of the tasteless mineral oil will temporarily protect
the bare steel when cutting food. If these knives become to taxing to
care for, new stainless steel replacement blades are available.
Q.
Can plated carbon steel blades be replated?
A.
Carbon steel blades can indeed be replated, though, the plating will
eventually wear off if used regularly. This will lead to the blade
rusting and possibly pitting. If the blade becomes too corroded, its
refinishing may render it too thin to be used after re-plating,
though, the knife could be used for display purposes only. The most
practical alternative for a carbon blade that has outlived its
usefulness at the table is to replace it with a stainless
steel blade.
Q.
What are the white spots I see on my plated piece?
A. This
phenomenon usually occurs on a freshly plated piece with moisture
migrating to the surface. Even if the piece was properly dried after
plating, some spots may still appear over a short period of time.
This is especially true if the base metal is a lead alloy or pewter
that was not nickel plated before being plated with fine silver. The
nickel would normally keep any moisture from migrating to the
surface. Polishing usually makes these spots disappear, but often
only on a temporary basis. To achieve a more permanent fix, after
polishing, heat the piece with a hair dryer (do not do this if your
piece is weighted) until it is warm to the touch. You may have to
repeat this procedure a few times until the white spots no longer appear.
Q.
What
is weighted sterling?
A.
Weighted sterling is made in two forms: structurally-weighted (for
structural stability throughout) and stability-weighted (so they
won't tip over). There are also objects that don't require structural
or stability weighting, but may be used in other ways, as in a
removable leather-covered lead bottom of a cigarette box.
Structurally-weighted objects
have been made since the late 19th century. They are generally marked
"Weighted," indicating they have pitch or plaster
throughout hollow areas. This may include steel-reinforced candelabra
arms that would sag if not supported. The rolled rims may be the only
exception with any reinforcement. Weighted creamers and sugars, for
example, would be easily dented if not filled. Candlesticks weighing
one pound may weigh less than one-tenth their weight in actual
sterling content when empty. Structurally-weighted objects, sometimes
made with sterling as thin as .003" (thinner than 20-pound copy
paper), has been used to save on the cost of the precious metal.
Stability-weighted objects are
normally taller or broader pieces that require weighted bases so they
won't tip over. They are generally more valuable since they are made
of thick enough sterling to support themselves without any filler.
The bases can be filled with pitch, plaster, or lead, and have been
produced for centuries.
More on weighted sterling
can be found here.
Q. Does
stainless steel corrode?
A.
Stainless generates a passive film of chromium oxide on its surface,
that is what makes it stainless. As long as that film is not damaged
it will not corrode, however put it in the right environment and it
will definitely be subject to such corrosion. This corrosion may show
as pitting on your sterling dinner knives with stainless blades. If
you constantly clean your knives in a dishwasher, a galvanic reaction
will occur by the introduction of hot water with cleaning agents.
Q. Who
should I contact if I want to sell my silver?
A.
Before you send your silver to a refiner, contact a reputable antique
silver dealer or auction house; you may find its worth more than you
think! Try any of the following businesses I have dealt with:
• A.B.
Levy
211 Worth Ave.
Palm Beach, FL 33480
561/835-9139 |
• Greenwald
Antiques
3096 Mayfield Rd.
Cleveland Heights,
OH 44118
216/932-5535
|
• As
You Like It Silver Shop
3033 Magazine St.
New Orleans, LA 70115
800/828-2311
|
• Heritage
Auction Galleries
1518 Slocum St.
Dallas, TX 75207
800/872-6467
|
• Beverly
Bremer Silver Shop
3164 Peachtree Rd. N.E.
Atlanta, GA 30305
800/270-4009 |
• M.
Ford Creech Antiques
581 South Perkins Rd.
Memphis, TN 38117
901/761-1163
|
• Carman's Collectables
PO Box 258
Levittown, PA 19059
215/946-9315
|
• Marsh
& Ackerman Antiques
PO Box 373
Swansea, MA 02777
508/675-4889,
Cell: 508/277-9942
|
• Christie's
20 Rockefeller Plaza
New York, NY 10020
212/636-2000
|
• Online
Sterling
2075 S. University
Blvd. #280
Denver, CO 80210
720/445-6222 |
• Drucker
Antiques, Inc.
487 East Main
Street, Ste. 197
Mount Kisco, NY 10549
914/923-4560
|
• Reliable
Gold
81 Wayland Ave.
Providence, RI 02906
401/861-1414 |
• Firestone
& Parson
8 Newbury St.
Boston, MA 02116
617/266-1858 |
• Sotheby's
1334 York Ave.
New York, NY 10021
800/813-5968 |
Q.
Where can I learn silversmithing or jewelry making?
A. Try
the resources on these pages:
U.S.
Schools Offering Degree Programs in Silversmithing & Related Fields
Silversmithing
& Related Workshops
Q.
I have just started
collecting. Are there any silver magazines?
A.
I would recommend subscribing to Silver
Magazine, PO Box 10246, Greensboro NC 27404, 866/841-0112.
Q.
I have about
70 pounds
of silver coins. Where should I sell them?
A.
It sounds like you need a reliable coin dealer. You may want to
search the American
Numismatic Association member locator.
Q.
I have a Mexican candelabra stamped "sterling" on the
bottom. Are
the arms sterling?
A. Though
there are no quality marks on the arms, I am confident that they are
sterling. Unlike Great Britain, Germany, and other countries that
must hallmark all removable pieces on an object, Mexico has no such standard.
Q. Why
is there a metallic taste when I drink coffee or tea?
A. When
I get this question, it usually leads to a plated pot that has the
plating worn off inside the object revealing the base metal
underneath. You should discontinue using these pieces until you can
get their interiors replated.
Q.
Who was
America's first silversmith?
A.
That's a tricky question that can only be answered as follows:
America's first foreign-born
silversmith was John Mansfield who arrived from London in 1635, and
settled in Charlestown, Massachusetts.
America's first foreign-born & American-trained
silversmith was John Hull of London who immigrated to Boston,
completing his apprenticeship in 1645.
America's first American-born
& American-trained silversmith was Jeremiah Dummer from
Quincy, Massachusetts, who completed his apprenticeship in 1666.
Q.
Is it true about
a smith's reflection in The Bible's Malachi 3:3?
A.
Yes, it is true that if a silversmith sees his/her reflection in a
crucible of molten silver that is ready to "pour."
Normally, charcoal or flux is added over the silver to absorb any
oxygen away from the silver. When the impurities have been
absorbed, and the silversmith can see his/her reflection (and
providing the metal hasn't been overheated), it's ready to pour.
Please keep in mind that safety
glasses and proper ventilation are an absolute MUST when working with
molten metal.
If you've forgotten the entire
story, here it is:
"There was a group of women
in a Bible study on the book of Malachi. As they were studying
chapter three they came across verse three which says, "He will
sit as a refiner and purifier of silver." This verse puzzled the
women and they wondered what this statement meant about the character
and nature of God.
One of the women offered to find
out about the process of refining silver and get back to the group at
their next Bible study. That week the woman called up a silversmith
and made an appointment to watch him at work. She didn't mention
anything about the reason for her interest in silver beyond her
curiosity about the process of refining silver. As she watched the
silversmith, he held a piece of silver over the fire and let it heat
up. He explained that, in refining silver, one needed to hold the
silver in the middle of the fire where the flames were hottest so as
to burn away all the impurities.
The woman thought about God
holding us in such a hot spot - then she thought again about the
verse, that He sits as a refiner and purifier of silver. She asked
the silversmith if it was true that he had to sit there in front of
the fire the whole time the silver was being refined. The man
answered that yes, he not only had to sit there holding the silver,
but he had to keep his eyes on the silver the entire time it was in
the fire. For if the silver was left even a moment too long in the
flames, it would be destroyed.
The woman was silent for a
moment. Then she asked the silversmith, "How do you know when
the silver is fully refined?" He smiled at her and
answered, "Oh, that's the easy part – when I see my image
reflected in it."
Q.
How do I remove nicks from my carving knives?
A.
Murray Carter, a master bladesmith , will guide you through the steps
on this page.
Q.
How can I
protect my silver tray from being scratched?
A.
Always be conscious as to what you will be setting down onto your
tray. If you are looking to maintain its pristine appearance, you may
want to consider the following: Have a piece of acrylic cut to
the same size and shape as the tray bottom (make sure to have the
plastic's edge polished), then you'll never have to worry about what
is set on top.
Q.
Can
silver go directly into a Ziploc bag without wrapping it in tissue first?
A. You
don't have to wrap the piece in tissue first, but be aware that
plastic – any type of plastic – will produce very fine
scratches on silver. These scratches will of course be more visible
on highly polished silver.
Q.
Short of
replating, how can I hide the copper showing on the
bottom of my tray?
A.
I would suggest having a flat or beveled mirror made to cover the
entire tray bottom. Spray the underside of the mirror with
polyurethane. Doing this will prevent any liquids spilled on the
mirror from creeping underneath and deteriorating the mirror's
reflective coating.
Q.
If I see copper showing inside my coffeepot, is it safe to drink from?
A.
Vessels should not be used if you see exposed copper or any other
base metal on the inside. These base metals can be toxic – the
object should be sent to a reputable plater for resilvering.
Q.
Where can I get glass liners made for my open salts?
A. Pairpoint
Glassworks will hand blow liners in
any color for open salts, ice buckets, casseroles, etc. They do
excellent work and prices are very reasonable.
Q.
How do I clean ivory insulators and handles?
A. Hand
sanitizer does a fantastic job cleaning off years of grime. Use a
toothbrush with short bristles to get into detail areas and finish by
wiping with a cotton towel. Use Renaissance wax to then protect the
surface from future stains. If you have any questions, consult a
restoration specialist BEFORE you start.
Q.
Why can't remove a stain on my silver salver after serving a roast?
A.
Obviously, there must have been an ingredient that
discolored the salver. Did you use a cellulose sponge with the
polish? If so, you may want to try a cotton ball since it will
condense the polishing ingredients. That's what I do here. If that
doesn't remove the stain, you may need something a bit more abrasive,
like Wright's. I'm sure you know to stay away from Tarn-X!
Q.
Can I use powered chalk and water to polish silver?
A.
The short answer is it's not recommended. Modern day
chalk is made with either calcium carbonate or calcium sulfate. There
are different grades of both these materials. Only laboratory-grade
calcium carbonate is recommended; anything else is much too abrasive
for your silver. Normally, the calcium carbonate is combined with
denatured alcohol and worked into slurry. The slurry is then applied
with a moist cellulose sponge. An excellent polish that contains
laboratory-grade calcium carbonate is Earth
Friendly Silver Polish.
Q.
When was electroplating invented?
A. Italian
Luigi V. Brugnatelli invented electroplating by electrolysis in
1805. But, it wasn't until the 1840s that John Wright of Birmingham,
England, discovered a more commercial process of electroplating using
potassium cyanide. George Richards Elkington and Henry Elkington of
Birmingham England – two cousins who began their research during
the industrial revolution – bought the patent rights from Wright
and were given the first patent for electroplating in the 1840s.
Q.
What's the correct way to set a table?
A.
You can find that answer here.
Q.
Can I use my plated meat tray to cook chicken or beef in the oven?
A.
I wouldn't put any silverplate in the oven. Some objects may contain
low-melting lead alloy parts (e.g. handles, applied rims, etc.) that
may melt if the heat goes above 250 degrees. Plus, you wouldn't want
to use an abrasive pad to remove food that was baked onto the piece.
I would advise cooking only in oven-safe materials, then placing what
was baked in the silverplated piece. |
