© Silver
Care (Updated 9/21/2007)
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Basic
Silver Care Advice by Jeffrey Herman |
© Silver Care (Updated 9/21/2007)
Basic Silver Care Advice by Jeffrey Herman
Additional Advice for Flood Victims by Jeffrey Herman
Cleaning Silver by Jeffrey Herman
Toothpaste as a Silver Polish by Jeffrey Herman
Chemical Dips by CCI & Jeffrey Herman
Electrochemical (Galvanic) Reduction by CCI & Jeffrey Herman
Coffee & Tea Stains by Jeffrey Herman
Salt Shaker Corrosion by Jeffrey Herman
Removing Wax From Candle Holders by Jeffrey Herman
Removing Labels by Jeffrey Herman
Silver & Dishwashers by Jeffrey Herman
Silver Storage & Display by CCI & Jeffrey Herman
3M Anti-Tarnish Strips by Jeffrey Herman
Hydrosorbent Silica Gel by Jeffrey Herman
Resources
Are You Afraid of Collecting Silver? by Jeffrey Herman
The Society of American Silversmiths, its members, editors, contributors, and executive director disclaim any responsibility or liability for damages or injuries as a result of any construction, design, use, manufacture, restoration & conservation advice, or other activity undertaken as a result of the use or application of information contained on this Web site and all other Society publications.
1. Clean your silver only when you don't feel rushed, because that's when things break. I've restored many a candelabra arm that was broken off in haste.
2. Allow only individuals with experience to clean your silver.
3. Use only approved polishes made specifically for silver. (See section on Resources.)
4. Dishwashers will eventually turn silver white from heat and harsh detergents, causing the silver to require professional refinishing. There's also the possibility of blades exploding out of hollow handle knives. (See section on Silver & Dishwashers.)
5. Silver flatware used on a daily basis will require little or no polishing. Make sure to hand wash the pieces with a phosphate-free detergent and dry them immediately to avoid spotting. (See section on Silver Display & Storage.)
6. Salt is extremely corrosive to silver; always empty shakers and wash them when not used on a regular basis. (See section on Salt Shaker Corrosion.)
7. Candelabra arms must always be supported from underneath when cleaning and inserting candles to avoid distortion or possible breakage.
Additional Advice for Flood Victims
8. If your silver was involved in a flood, gently shake any piece that might have hollow spaces (e.g., sockets on teapots and coffeepots that contain ivory heat insulators or wooden handles, hollow-handled flatware, objects with hollow rims, and candlestick cups with double walls). If you can hear water swishing within these areas, contact a recommended professional restorer for an assessment of the object’s needs.
9. If you hear no swishing, but the piece contains porous attachments (e.g., ivory insulators, wooden handles), don't soak these pieces; use a hand sanitizer to clean them before polishing.
10. If the object has no hollow areas or porous attachments, rinse the piece so it's clean to the touch (that way you're not scratching the surface with grit when you clean or polish it). Then, using a cellulose sponge, wash the piece with a phosphate-free detergent and warm water before polishing.
11. Solid silver (but not plated silver) tarnished by floodwater can be sterilized by boiling. Gently place the piece in a Pyrex or stainless pot, add filtered water (preferable) or tap water and bring to a boil. Continue to boil for 10 minutes. Do not boil objects with hollow spaces (see #8) or any piece coated with lacquer. Lacquer may be present if the piece has never shown any trace of tarnish.
12. Rust may be present on carbon steel knife blades of older pieces, or on the worn edges of knife blades coated with silver. Do not use steel wool or Navel Jelly to remove the rust!
13. When in doubt, stop! Contact a reputable restorer for advice before doing irreparable harm to your silver.
Silver, when properly maintained, will yield generations of enjoyment. The following cleaning instructions have been tried and proven in my silver restoration & conservation studio. These instructions are for those individuals who are maintaining the vast majority of antique and new silver (fine silver, coin, sterling, Britannia, and other alloys) in the world. Solid gold is generally cared for in the same way as silver. Objects that are silver-plated or gold-plated over precious metal or base metal must be cleaned with the same care as solid metals. Museum conservators generally clean silver and gold by using a calcium carbonate/denatured alcohol mixture which will not be discussed here, for most individuals would prefer not to spend hours cleaning a teapot! Also, the more technical aspects of silver care have been kept to a minimum and advice given here is more appropriate for a general audience.
Silver is tarnished by sulfur-containing materials, particularly hydrogen sulfide (H2S). The most common tarnish-causing elements are wool, felt, food (eggs, onions, mayonnaise), fossil fuels, rubber bands, latex gloves, carpet padding, and certain paints. Tarnish is accelerated in a humid environment. Oily salts from fingers can, if not removed, show up as corrosion patterns that may have to be professionally removed.
If there is no tarnish present on your silver, use a phosphate-free detergent to clean it after use. Silver that is used, then gently washed and dried immediately, will require infrequent tarnish removal. When hand washing, do not allow your silver to come into contact with a metal sink: it will scratch.
Tarnish is easily removed when first noticed (usually a yellowish tint), and will become increasingly difficult to deal with as it turns to light brown and eventually black. Frequent light cleanings (washing the object with a phosphate-free detergent may be all you need) are preferred to waiting until the tarnish gets so stubborn that more abrasive polishes have to be employed.
The polishes and cleaners listed here can be found in your local hardware or department store, or can be bought from distributors listed in the Resources section. 3M's Tarni-Shield Silver Polish and Twinkle Silver Polish are by far the least abrasive of the commercial cleaners, and Tarni-Shield has a much more effective tarnish barrier than Twinkle. Goddard’s Long Shine Silver Polish, Goddard’s Silver Wash, Wright's Anti-Tarnish Silver Polish, and Wright’s Silver Cream (the Silver Cream offers no tarnish protection) are all recommended for removing heavier tarnish and residue. Use Wright's Silver Cream to remove stains on steel knife blades. If the choice is between a polish that protects better but is more abrasive, and one that does not protect as well but is far less abrasive, go with the less abrasive polish. Polishes that are meant to be washed off are less abrasive because they use a liquid to suspend the polishing ingredients.
Don’t use polishes that have dried up; the abrasive particles have become much too concentrated and will harm your silver. Never use steel wool (too abrasive and rust may result if particles are not fully rinsed from the interior of an object), Scotch-Brite scouring pads (too abrasive), or dips (too toxic; see section on Chemical Dips).
You may have noticed, after cleaning your silver, that a purplish stain remained. This is oxidized copper, called firestain, and can be found on many colonial through nineteenth century pieces. It is not generally seen on pieces that have been produced by the large silver companies after the 1800s, though many one-person silversmithing shops still use this technique. This depletion process leaves the object with a pure silver surface which is more resistant to tarnishing. The stain develops in sterling and coin silver when oxygen penetrates the outer surface of the object during brazing, oxidizing the copper content. Fine silver is left on the surface when acid chemically removes the oxidized copper, though copper may be oxidized below the surface. Firestain may not show up until after many years of polishing.
Do not mistake this stain for tarnish! Attempting to remove it will only damage your prized piece.
Use this technique if you are polishing an object WITH porous attachments:
Wooden handles & finials, ivory insulators, and felt used on the bottoms of candlesticks and compotes can become damaged when introduced to excess moisture. For objects with such components, use Goddard’s Long Shine Silver Polish. Use Long Shine also for hollow areas that will not dry (beaded rims, handle sockets with minute holes, etc.), or if there is no source of water. Of the polishes listed above, this is the only one that is meant to be allowed to dry and then buffed off. Use a large cotton ball with a small amount of polish and rotate the ball regularly to expose unused surfaces, as elements in the tarnish can be very abrasive. Rub the object in a straight, back-and-forth manner so as to maintain a uniform appearance. Avoid rubbing in a circular motion. Let the polish dry and remove it with a Selvyt cloth (preferred) or cotton dish towel. Selvyt is a lint-free, untreated, 100% cotton wiping cloth which is also excellent for highlighting ornament. Always use the smallest amount of polish necessary.
A dry horsehair brush can be used to remove dried polish and grime from crevices and ornament on previously polished pieces before repolishing. A wet brush is preferred which will soften the bristles and aid in lifting the polish from the object's surface with minimal abrasion. When used wet, the bristles alone will not scratch the silver. A wet toothpick will get into the smallest areas.
Use this technique if you are polishing an object WITHOUT porous attachments:
If you are cleaning a piece with no porous attachments, rinse the object first to remove any pollution that may have settled on the object. These contaminants, which may be more abrasive than the polish you will be using, can actually scratch the silver if rubbed into the surface. Apply Tarni-Shield, Twinkle, Goddard’s Silver Wash, Wright's Anti-Tarnish Silver Polish, or Wright's Silver Cream using a moist cellulose sponge. If you feel it necessary to protect your hands from moisture, use nitrile gloves which contain no ingredients that tarnish silver. Rub the object in a straight, back-and-forth manner so as to maintain a uniform appearance. Avoid rubbing in a circular motion. Rinse the sponge regularly, as elements in the tarnish can be very abrasive. Flattened cotton swab heads with very little silver polish applied are excellent for cleaning between fork tines.
Dried polish can be removed by patting the area with a warm, wet cotton ball or a wet horsehair brush. Rinse the object with warm water, and then dry with a Selvyt cloth or cotton dish towel immediately to avoid spotting.
Use a rouge cloth to restore the original luster to silver and gold which has been dulled by heavy tarnish. Unlike the Selvyt cloth which is untreated, the rouge cloth contains a polishing agent, normally rouge. I advise using untreated, heavyweight cotton inspection gloves to avoid finger prints when cleaning and storing your freshly cleaned objects. After dinner, if you prefer not to apply a tarnish protectant, wash all utensils by hand with a dishwashing detergent and warm water, and dry immediately with a Selvyt cloth or cotton dish towel. Do not allow silver to come into contact with a metal sink, as the sink itself can scratch, especially if it’s been heavily abraded over time. Wash your flatware as soon as possible after eating; some foods contain ingredients that may cause stains, tarnish, or corrosion.
Toothpaste should NEVER be used as a silver polish. Some toothpastes contain baking soda or other ingredients which are much too abrasive; even trace amounts can cause serious damage. Use polishes that are specifically formulated to remove tarnish from silver.
Chemical dips work by dissolving the tarnish on an object at an accelerated rate. Dips are used by silver restorers when heavy black tarnish cannot be removed with liquid or paste polishes. Chemical dips are wiped over the object with a cellulose sponge or cotton ball, for submerging the entire piece for long periods will cause pitting of the object's surface and remove factory-applied patinas. This surface will act like a sponge and more readily absorb tarnish producing gases and moisture. The object may then require professional polishing to restore the original finish.
These dips are made up of an acid and a complexing agent. Acids are corrosive and will damage niello, bronze, stainless steel knife blades, and organic materials such as wood and ivory. The ingredients can be harmful to the user, which is why silver restorers work in a well ventilated area and wear nitrile gloves. Chemical dips should never be used on objects that have sealed components, such as candlesticks and trophies with hollow feet, or teapots with hollow handles. Once the dip leaks into the cavity through small holes or imperfections in the joints, it becomes virtually impossible to wash the chemical out. For these reasons, this cleaning technique should only be used by a qualified restorer.
Electrochemical (Galvanic) Reduction
This process uses an aluminum or aluminum alloy plate and a warm solution of sodium carbonate (washing soda). When the object comes into contact with the plate in the solution, it removes only light tarnish, not the thick, black tarnish produced by years of neglect.
Pitting of the object can occur if the aluminum plate is not periodically cleaned. Another not-so-obvious problem is scratching of the object when in contact with the plate.
Objects cleaned by this method may tarnish more quickly than silver that has been polished, for the object's surface will act like a sponge and more readily absorb tarnish producing gases and moisture. The solution can also seep into hollow areas such as coffee pot handles, unsoldered spun beads around the tops of lightweight holloware, weighted pieces with minute holes, and any porous attachments. For these reasons, this cleaning technique is not recommended.
Use the following technique if you can manually clean the inside of a coffeepot or teapot (it’s quicker than the latter technique). Use a cellulose sponge (if the pot opening is big enough) or make a swab by wrapping a sponge on the end of a wooden dowel. Moisten the sponge and apply a liberal amount of Wright’s Silver Cream, then wipe away the stain and rinse the pot thoroughly with warm water. Wright’s is an excellent cleaner for this task because it’s much less abrasive than commercial cleaners that are not meant specifically for silver. Don’t use powdered abrasive cleaners, as they will impart fine scratches which actually attract more dirt. Don’t use steel wool (too abrasive and rust may result in the bottom), Scotch-Brite or scouring pads (too abrasive), or dips (too toxic — see section on Chemical Dips). A cotton swab with a small amount of Wright’s will remove stains within the spout opening. Rinse well with warm water.
If you can’t adequately clean the interior manually, fill the pot with warm water and drop in one five-minute denture cleaning tablet (about five cents each) per two cups of water. Let stand for ten minutes, empty, then rinse with warm water. You may find that the effervescing action of the tablets may just break the contact between the stain and the silver and not lift the residue. If this occurs, use a wet brush to remove the loosened residue and rinse with warm water.
Those crusty corrosion marks on and in your salt shaker can be a real annoyance. One way to avoid this problem from the very start is to empty the shaker after a dinner party and thoroughly wash it; this way the salt doesn't have time to do its damage. Heavily gold plating the interior is the only other way to preserve the finish because gold is impervious to the effects of salt. It is still wise to clean out the shaker at least twice a year and inspect the plate to make sure it has not been abraded by the salt's coarseness.
There is a simple way to remove the corrosion yourself. Do this in a well ventilated area and with nitrile gloves since you will be using ammonia. Silver dips will not perform as well as ammonia. If you are removing corrosion from a salt shaker, pour ammonia into a container, place the shaker inside, and cover the container. Let the shaker sit for ten minutes, then remove from the container and inspect. If the black corrosion spots remain, place the shaker back in and let stand for another ten minutes and inspect again. If the corrosion is not gone after 30 minutes, have the shaker professionaly refinished.
You may notice a slight graying of the silver. If this occurs, use Hagerty's Silversmiths' Wash or, if you need something a bit more abrasive, try Bon Ami, both of which are more abrasive than the Tarni-Shield, Twinkle, Goddard's, and Wright's polishes. First, try a generous amount of Hagerty's Silversmiths' Wash on a damp sponge to bring back the surface, inside and outside of the shaker. If Hagerty's is not abrasive enough, try a small amount of Bon Ami cleanser on a wet sponge and lightly rub the inside and outside of the shaker to renew the silver luster. Remember, as in polishing silver, always use the smallest amount of abrasive to do the job. You should perform the Bon Ami procedure under trickling water in your sink; this way the abrasive qualities of the cleanser dissipate, leaving the silver brighter than if you were to maintain the full strength of the cleanser.
After the corrosion has been satisfactorily removed, use a rouge cloth to bring back the silver's luster, then use Tarni-Shield, Twinkle Silver Polish, Goddard's Long Shine Silver Polish, or Wright's Anti-Tarnish Silver Polish on the exterior for protection against the elements. And, as stated earlier, the less contact silver has with salt, the better.
Removing Wax From Candle Holders
Do you become frustrated when trying to remove wax from your weighted candle holders? Do you go pawing into your flatware drawer to find just the right size knife to dig out the wax? Do you run the piece under warm water, only to create a big mess? Well, here's a simple, non-invasive technique: use your hair dryer (not a heat gun). Be careful not to get the object too hot, especially if it’s lacquered. Warm the candle cup or other area coated with wax. Lightly touch the area with your finger to make sure it's not too hot, then wipe the area with a paper towel. If cleaning out a candle cup, support the cup from underneath with your hand to prevent bending the arm. If the opening is too small for your finger, gently stuff (don't force) the paper towel into the cup and twist. Cotton swabs also work very well, especially on Hanukkah lamps with very small candle cups. Use as much fresh paper towel or as many cotton swabs as needed; otherwise, you will continually reapply the wax you are removing. If residue remains, use a non-abrasive silver polish and cotton ball or cotton towel to remove it.
Non-weighted candle holders can be put in your freezer. Upon removing them, use your fingernail (not a knife) to delicately chip off the wax.
Use dripless candles whenever possible and remove any wax residue from candle holders after each use. Using these techniques will greatly reduce maintenance time.
You just purchased a vase with one of those labels that leaves so much sticky residue it could be used to wrap a package! Here’s a removal technique: use a hair dryer to soften the label adhesive. The label should then come off cleanly with its adhesive backing. If there is a sticky residue left, use some isopropyl alcohol, Goo Gone, or Elmer’s Sticky Out to remove it. Elmer’s Sticky Out is the safest of the three liquids. The other two should be used in a well ventilated area with nitrile gloves. Any residue remaining after using any of the three cleaners should be removed with Windex Multi-Surface Cleaner with Vinegar. If a discolored spot remains where the adhesive had been, remove it with silver polish.
KEEP SILVER OUT OF THE DISHWASHER! It's that simple. There are three major reasons for keeping your prized sterling and silverplate out of the "chamber of doom:" (1) Any factory-applied oxidation (the black patina) will eventually be removed, leaving a dull, non-reflective surface. The harsh detergent, combined with the washer's high cleaning temperature, is much too abrasive for silver. (2) Most older and some repaired hollow-handled knives are repaired with pitch. This low-melting cement will expand with heat, possibly forcing open a thin solder seam, or exploding the knife blade out of the handle. (3) Silver that touches stainless in the dishwasher can create a chemical reaction, producing black spots on the silver and possibly causing the silver to require professional refinishing. These pieces routinely end up in a silversmith's shop for blade remounting, reoxidizing, and/or refinishing. Sterling, like a fine automobile, must be handled with tender loving care. You certainly wouldn't drive your Rolls Royce through a car wash, would you?
Your primary consideration should be to keep silver objects clean and free of dust and surface grime. In addition, the following guidelines will help to preserve your silver’s finish while it is on display or in storage.
To minimize the formation of tarnish inside display cases, use silica gel to keep relative humidity low. Choose a silica gel canister with a built-in indicator that turns the gel from blue to pink when saturated with moisture. Reactivate the gel by drying the canister in the oven: before doing so, read the directions thoroughly – silica must not be inhaled! Certain paints, oils, and fabrics within the case can accelerate the formation of tarnish. Therefore, if the case or cabinet is made of wood, the interior surface should be sealed, preferably with lacquer or polyurethane. If latex paint is used, allow it to dry for at least four months.
If a silver piece to be stored is already tarnished, even if it is heavily blackened, it need not be polished before storing: doing so will only reveal fresh sterling or fine silver electroplate to be exposed to the elements. Before storing, wrap each piece in non-buffered tissue paper (acid-free and of archival quality) or soft anti-tarnish tissue, place it in a polyethylene bag such as a Ziploc, and seal the bag. This will provide some protection against changes in relative humidity and create a barrier against tarnish producing gases.
Another option is to wrap the object in a sulfur-absorbing cloth such as Pacific Silvercloth before putting it in the polyethylene bag. This type of fabric is impregnated with microscopic particles of silver that attract sulfur, thereby preventing much of it from being absorbed by the piece being stored. (Sulfur-absorbing cloths must be replaced from time to time as they eventually become saturated.) You can further protect silver pieces against tarnish by placing small containers of silica gel (to absorb moisture) and activated charcoal (to absorb pollutants) in the storage bag.
Pacific Silvercloth flannel flatware rolls will protect each piece individually. Rotating your flatware will ensure the entire set wears evenly. Highly polished silver will mellow and develop a wonderful patina. This patina is made up of very fine scratches, distinguishing this metal from all others.
There are a few noteworthy materials in which silver should not be stored. Do not wrap it in newspaper or bind it with rubber bands: these materials will react with silver to cause deep discoloration which may have to be professionally polished. Do not store silver in plastic wrap: in addition to containing tarnish producing materials, the plastic can adhere to the silver over time, requiring solvents to remove. Finally, use only archival cardboard boxes, as non-archival ones contain acids that aggressively tarnish silver.
Lacquering or waxing silver is generally not recommended because of the difficulties in obtaining an even coating. If the coating has not been applied well, it may be uneven or have streaks and small holes, so that when the object retarnishes, it could look worse than if no coating had been applied at all. However, in an open display where surface protection of the object is necessary, a micro-crystalline wax such as Renaissance is recommended.
3M Anti-Tarnish Strips can be used to absorb tarnish-producing gases. The strips are made from a 45-lb. paper containing activated charcoal. They guard against corrosion, tarnish, and discoloration by absorbing airborne pollutants. These strips can also be used to protect objects containing copper, brass, solder, gold, and tin. Unlike similar products, 3M strips absorb on both sides.
Protection time depends on the nature and permeability of the storage container and on the pollution level of the surrounding atmosphere. For normal atmospheres, one 3M Anti-Tarnish Strip in a container will provide the following protection: loosely sealed container (e.g., cardboard box, china cabinet, or flatware chest): 6 months; moderately sealed container (e.g., lightweight polyethylene bag): 12 months; and tightly sealed container (e.g., low-permeability polyethylene bag): up to 24 months. A 2"x7" strip will protect an area up to 422 cubic inches, the approximate size of a flatware chest. The strips should be replaced using the above guidelines, for once they are fully saturated with pollutants, the strips themselves will become inactive.
Since World War II, silica gel has been the desiccant (drying agent) of choice by government and industry. It is safe to use with even the most sensitive materials, including food and medicine–it’s what is used in those tiny packets to prevent moisture. Hydrosorbent silica gel is in the form of chemically inert man-made granules containing thousands of tiny crevices which “drink up” excess humidity from the air by surface adsorption. It prevents tarnish- and corrosion-causing condensation within enclosed areas, such as flatware drawers and china cabinets. Such areas should be made as vapor-proof as possible.
When totally saturated with adsorbed moisture, the granules will turn from blue to pink, indicating it’s time for drying. Reactivation is performed by placing the canister in a conventional oven. The reactivation process can be repeated indefinitely for a lifetime of protection.
• • •
The previous topics on Chemical Dips, Electrochemical (Galvanic) Reduction, and Silver Display & Storage were referenced from articles supplied by the Canadian Conservation Institute, Department of Canadian Heritage, 1030 Innes Rd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada K1A OM5, 613/998-3721; Fax: 613/998-4721. Jeffrey Herman supplied additional information on the above topics.
Referenced articles:
"Silver-Care and Tarnish Removal," CCI Notes No. 9/7 (Ottawa: Canadian Conservation Institute, 1993). This article is not technical and is intended for the general public.
"Historical Silver: Storage, Display and Tarnish Removal" by Lyndsie S. Selwyn, Journal of the International Institute for Conservation—Canadian Group, volume 15, 1990, pp. 12-22.
"Evaluation of Silver—Cleaning Products" by Lyndsie S. Selwyn and Charles G. Costain, Journal of the International Institute for Conservation—Canadian Group, volume 16, 1991, pp. 3-16.
Topics by Jeffrey Herman:
Basic Silver Care Advice, Cleaning Silver, Toothpaste as a Silver Polish, Coffee & Tea Stains, Salt Shaker Corrosion, Removing Wax From Candle Holders, Removing Labels, Sterling & Dishwashers, 3M Anti-Tarnish Strips, and Hydrosorbent Silica Gel.
Silver Polishes
3M Tarni-Shield™ Silver Polish
McKinnon Global / Web site
1313 5th St. SE
Minneapolis, MN 55414
800/452-4816Goddard's™ Long Shine Silver Polish
Northern Labs, Inc.
4701 Custer St.
Manitowoc, WI 54220
800/558-7621, 920/684-7137Wright's® Silver Polish / Web site
My Brands
395 Summit Point Dr., Suite 1
Henrietta, NY 14467
888/281-6400Twinkle® Silver Polish
S.C. Johnson Wax
Racine, WI 53405
800/558-5252W.J. Hagerty & Sons Ltd, Inc.
PO Box 1496
South Bend, IN 46624
800/348-5162, 219/288-4991Heavyweight Cotton Inspection Gloves (Natural Jersey)
Galeton Gloves / Web site
85 Constitution Dr.
Taunton, MA 02780-1071
800/221-0570, Fax: 800/322-2003Selvyt™ Cloths & Rouge Cloths
Allcraft Tool & Supply Co.
666 Pacific St.
Brooklyn, NY 11217
800/645-7124, 718/789-7923Sassounian, Inc.
716 South Olive St.
Los Angeles, CA 90014
800/544-4419, 213/627-1206T.B. Hagstoz & Son, Inc. / Web site
709 Sansom St.
Philadelphia, PA 19106
800/922-1006, 215/922-1627Nitrile Gloves (Heavyweight and Disposable)
Safety Source Northeast / Web site
111 Pennsylvania Ave.
Warwick, RI 02888
800/354-6113, 401/736-87743M Anti-Tarnish Strips
Whitney Worldwide Inc. / Web site
Dave Peters or Jean Routhe
1845 Buerkle Road St. Paul, MN 55110
800/597-0227 Fax: 651/748-4000Hydrosorbent Silica Gel
Hydrosorbent Dehumidifiers / Web site
PO Box 437
Ashley Falls, MA 01222
800/448-7903, Fax: 413/229-8743Non-Buffered Tissue Paper
University Products / Web site
PO Box 101
Holyoke, MA 01041
800/762-1165, Fax: 800/532-9281Soft, Anti-Tarnish Tissue
Judd Paper Co. / Web site
92 Race St.
Holyoke, MA 01040
413/534-566Renaissance® Wax
Cutlery Specialties / Web site
22 Morris Ln.
Great Neck, NY 11024
516/829-5899, Fax: 516/773-8076Pacific Silvercloth™ Flannel Holloware & Flatware Bags and Drawer Liners
Eureka Manufacturing Co. / Web site
47 Elm St.
Norton, MA 02766
800/376-8209, 508/285-9881, Fax: 508/285-2205SilverGuard / Web site
7808 Ardmore Circle
Austin, TX 78744
877/206-5296, 512-326-9777
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